Canada

30.4.12

Done Detting




From the caves south to a mystical place called the four thousand islands. Though relatively close looking on a map, this area is quite far from Kong Lo, and rendered further feeling by the hellish sauna of a busride. To make matters slightly less tolerable, a four hour stop at a unbearably bad concert ensues. After arrival on Don Khong, the largest of the islands, eat rice soup filled with ants(bonus protein) and get a boat to Don Khon, a very similarly named yet smaller island. The attitude is relaxed in the extreme, and joint toking hippies covered in dreads wander the streets barefoot, sabaidee-ing each other and cooking pizza in homemade barrel stoves.

Apart from the dope, the islands are beautiful, and lounging in the sun feels like being hit with hot sticks. After a ten minute session, a slick of sweat worthy of the pastiest northern traveler adorns most people. Street vendor samosas satiate hunger, and a kayaking trip rounds out the experience of southern Laos by showing  some of the Irrawady freshwater dolphins. Also included are some waterfalls, one of which is the "Niagara" of Southeast Asia, meaning that it has more water flow over it than any other. A return to the isle and a penchant for wanting to help leads to aiding the carrying of a three and a half ton electricity transformer strapped to a bunch of bamboo. Sore shoulders ensue, but a midnight dip in a moonlit Mekong helps to soothe any pain felt and a couple beer lao later sleep embraces us all.


19.4.12

In Praise of Egg Noodles.


Just a quick thought before I lose the train of thought precariously perched at the station currently being paid attention to in my head. Egg noodles. These noodles are the kings of noodles. More bite than Chinese white noodles, thicker and more voluminous than the Viet vermicelli, and more sauce absorbent than any dry package noodles. These noodles reign. Competition in thought is welcome, with the restrictions set at pastas, which have their own competition.

17.4.12

Back to surreality. A river runs through it.

After somewhere like VV, a return to normalcy can be shocking, jarring even. Typically, said shock comes with a heavy pillow of relief from the fact that a return to normalcy is desired. The bus to Vientiane was short and uneventful, as was our time there in general. Heard from a friend in VV that the Kong Lo caves were the highlight of Laos, and weren't foolish enough to miss such a golden opportunity. Though starkly removed from any semblance of a beaten path, the route to Kong Lo was precisely what the doctor ordered. After a ride out in a bus, eating sticky rice by hand with soy sauce and being dropped at an intersection in the middle of the night with no real idea of it's location, sometimes lady luck lends a gorgeous hand. Whilst sitting on a bench roadside, chatting with a gentleman who bicycled here from Poland, a family moving van pulled up to get gas. Providence presides, and a ride is secured to the small town closest to the caves, where guesthouses are available. Stress should be put on the "moving"aspect of this van. Literally so chock full of farm equipment, women and children that entering through the windows was the only method of getting a seat. There was a small child dormant on a refrigerator next to me. Rugged.

Arrival yeilds a cheap and cheerful guesthouse, which, after a roach murder, is quite comfortable and free of other pests. Also, it turns out roaches fly. News to end all news.

The following day strike out early to achieve the desired goal of a 7 km journey through pitch black limestone caves. Eat some chicking with feathers on it. Feel not good about it. Get a tuktuk to the caves with some folk we met in VV. Hilarity ensues.

The caves are truly beyond description. I may throw that around, but the feeling of floating through a mountain on a boat in the most truly enveloping darkness is one that must be felt to be believed. The guide's headlamps stab fruitlessly at making sense of the scale and scope of the cave complex. Hundred meter vaulting ceilings blast skyward seeming to make no sense that sky doesn't show at their apex. Indoor waterfalls speckle the water with drops falling from crevices that rise straight to the mountaintop. At some points, exiting the boat is a necessity to portage over rapids. Instead of repeating the same on the way back, a slightly different route is taken to avoid becoming bored as if it was a possibility when sitting in a state of shock and awe. Guides seem to be good company, and as a result eschew the traditional portage in favour of pulling in the boat engine and sledding down the rapids like lunatics. Awesome.